Ait
Benhaddou is famous for the myriad of movies that
were filmed here such as Gladiator and Sodom And Gomorrah. The main
focus of the town is a large mostly abandoned cliff side city to
which our hotel is adjacent to. We started our day by venturing
towards this movie site. After going the wrong way and walking though
someones back yard we found a river separating us from our
destination.
A
series of intricately placed sand bags would be our bridge across the
roaring river. Once safely across we attempted to enter the city only
to have two helpful young lads tell us that we were entering a
private residence. They of course had an alternate rout and happily
encouraged us to follow them into the city. We heeded their warning
knowing it was most likely a scam and approached the city from
a hustler free angle.
Our
new rout lead us around the city and up the side of the mountain. As
we walked around the ghost medina we saw other white people and
concluded we had made the correct rout decision. We put on our off road shoes and navigated up a few walls to reach the top of the city where
a small run down house resided.
We
had a fantastic view of not only the movie city but the actual city.
After
exploring the decrepit house we decided to venture through the city that
the assholes chased us out of. Walking down the medina we found ourselves exiting through the very entrance that
we were told was closed. It is very hard to trust anyone in this
country and it's getting old. Scammers will lie to either get you to
go through their shop or pay their self imposed tariff on an
otherwise free attraction. Upon leaving, one of the scammers spotted
us and tried to follow us into the city. With a bit of illusion and a
brisk pace we were able to shake him.
With
the only attraction in Ait Benhaddou out of the way we began our trek
to Marrakesh Looking at the map it appeared as if this would be a
relatively short journey. When you take into account the constant
hairpin turns, semis, tour buses, pot holes, and slow cars this is
not really the case. You may recall a certain car commercial in the
US that covers this very section of driving:
Can our Dacia Logan handle it? You betcha.
At
one point a semi and a tour bus faced off on a tight turn down the
mountain. Instead of slowing down and allocating the proper space for
each vehicle the semi powered through the turn. This resulted in the
semi going off the road and ravishing a poor innocent guard rail.
The
Logan handled the turn like a dream. Driving through the Atlas
mountains can take its toll on a man but thankfully there are plenty
of watermelon salesmen along the way.
Fun
fact: this does not happen in nature. All over this region of morocco
are old men trying to sell you fake geodes. They take common clear
crystals and dye them red, purple or chrome to attract tourists
unknowable eyes. But boy are they delicious.
We
once again found that traffic laws and signs are there for reference
and are not to be applied to reality. Most driving experiences in
this country are utter chaos. Passing cars over blind corners, hills,
though oncoming traffic and pedestrian zones is common place.
Furthermore the only time police officers enforce any sort of traffic
laws is at well marked checkpoints in which we are always
lackadaisically waved through. Every so often we encounter these
signs that we have jokingly translated to free wifi for motorists.
After
passing one of these signs we noticed a man hiding behind a tree with
a radar gun. Directly behind him was an 80 km/h sign. I checked my
speedometer and thought nothing of it as the instrument read 80.
Shortly after we approached another one of these routine police
traffic stops. Expecting to once again be waved though we were a bit
confused when the officer pointed at me to pull over.
I
was informed that I was driving 80 km in a 60 km zone. I pointed out
that the sign said 80 but I was quickly corrected. I must have missed
a speed change as I do not recall seeing any sort of 60 km/h sign. He
requested my license and the cars registration papers. I handed over
my license while Tim looked for the documents. Unimpressed with my
license he asks for more another form of identification. I provide my
international drivers license and passport. The officer informs me
that the fine will be 500 dh, payable on the spot.
It
turns out that earlier in the week Tim had received a message from
the rental car company. Until now we had ignored it but we suspect
that perhaps this was to inform him that they had neglected to
provide us with the proper paperwork for the car. We attempt to
explain this predicament to the officer without much success. He
calls the rental agency and they do not respond.
At
this point I was pretty sure our car would be impounded. In a last
ditch effort he called in the plate. It appears to clear at which
point I think he realized getting not only our papers but out
nonexistent money was going to be more hassle than it was worth.
After having us sit on the side of the road for an additional 15
minutes he approached us and simply said 'you may go'. We amble
our way out before they can change their mind.
It
is important to note that throughout the day I have become quite ill.
When I woke up I simply had a sore throat but as the day progressed
my sinuses closed up and left me with a migraine level headache. At
our road side detour I was full on sick. At this point I just want
this day to be done so we fight our way into Marrakesh.
The
driving quickly becomes horrible. In the city center there are three
official lanes that are stretched into six. Traffic lights are mostly
ignored and motor bikes cut you off in every direction. We manage to
find some parking just outside of the medina and mentally prepare for
the gauntlet of fake tour guides, scammers, and various other douche
bags. Surprisingly enough we were mostly left to ourselves. Although missing, they were replaced by a slew of motor bikes.
We were
even able to ask a shop owner for directions without further
repercussions. He steered us in the right direction and with a little
searching we were able to find the correct street then the hostel.
Starving
a rely on Tim to find me food. He returns with some delicious chicken
he was able to finagle from just down the street.
I
proceed to shower and sleep for the rest of the day. I am hoping This
will be gone by tomorrow.
