Monday, December 10, 2012

Meknes: A Hidden Turd



Our time in Chefchaouen was up and it was time to head to Meknes. The maps quoted us a 3 hour trip. We decided to grab some breakfast before heading out, not knowing if any viable food options would be available on our drive.



Right before heading out we went for one last stroll through the Medina. Tim spotted an article of authentic designer clothing he wanted to purchase. Notice the fine quality and the consistency of the logos. The stitching is also top notch.



After looking through the rest of the medians offerings we were off to Meknes.





I was able to get the gps unit to locate us and find our destination but it still was a bit off.



We ended up using road signs to guide us. We went a little photo crazy on this drive. Tim noticed how green everything is and this is literally the first time anyone in the car has made that observation.  






We encountered a number of different road signs along the way. Now for your reading pleasure we present Tim and Jake's guide to North African road signs.  

Watch out for slippery snakes


Pedophile crossing


A cup warning


Punctuation ahead


Stop! Skate rentals ahead


Death to America


"Attention! Whatever you do, do not got to Meknes. Continue onto Fes" We should have paid attention to this one.




We arrived in town and found a parking spot right outside of the Medina. It was pay parking so we told the man we would only be an hour. We headed inside the Medina. Meknes seemed to favor the Orange walls over the blue.



We were pretty instantly overwhelmed. This Medina was much larger than ones I had visited. On top of that there were no signs for the riad we had booked. I think we were able to find just about every other lodging option but our own. We tried every entrance into the medina with no avail. We even asked people in the medina for direction and no one had heard of our seemingly nonexistent riad. Approaching 5pm and having not eaten since breakfast everything started to look fuzzy and disorienting.



After almost 2 hours of looking I finally spotted a small handwritten sign tucked away to the side with the desired name pointing down the street. Elated we followed it to a mosque entrance. We were stopped by the attendant and I pointed to the piece of paper with the riad name on it. He had actually heard of it and pointed down the street. We followed his directions and were lead to a fork in the road.

Veering to the left we carefully looked around but there was nothing but shops. After some time we tried the other tong and eventually we came upon another little sign. Shortly there after we stumbled onto our stop for the night. How someone is supposed to find this place with the signs provided I do not know, it was ridiculous. Frustrated and exhausted we knocked on the door and we were let in the riad.  



They offered us tea and had us fill out the required paperwork. Then they left. For good. No one else was around in the lobby and all of the rooms seemed to be empty. We were the only people staying here. Not a good sign. Eventually we wondered into the kitchen and found the lady that had let us in. She then took us to our room.  



Upon first glance it seemed like a nice place. They even had a recent award for cleanliness they received from some place called hostel bookers. Upon further inspection we noticed the following features of the hostel:

- Shower had no water pressure and no hot water

- Toilet was running and was missing parts so it would not flush. You could get it to stop running for a 3 dh fee.


- We didn’t have a key to the front door. Any time we wanted back into the riad we had to knock and hope one of the staff heard us to let us in.

- Lastly both of our comforters had old rat turds crusted into them.  


It was a great place. Meknes was turning out to be really awesome! Needing to stomp out our continuing hunger we set out to get some food. I was craving pizza and they had a pizza place just outside the Medina wall we spotted when we were hopelessly lost. Every time we left the riad we had trouble not only finding our way out of the Medina but finding our way back in. This was no exception. When we finally made it to the gate where we were presented with the following.


Up to this point the streets had been fairly clear and moving around was easy, but we had stumbled onto some sort of impromptu market that everyone in town decided to shop in all at once. People would just start selling things in the middle of the crowd and block all of the walk ways. It was truly horrible. It was like walking through the worlds biggest club. We were already starving and this was another detour to our culinary happiness.



After about 45 minutes we escaped the consumer mob and got our pizza. The menu was in Arabic and French so we had to piece our limited french knowledge to order. I got the only pizza I saw that that had ham, Tim was feeling frisky and got the one with calamari.  



Our results were predictable as I was presented a meat lovers pizza and Tim was presented with a seafood pizza. Neither were particularly good but Tim's was particularly horrible. I don’t know what he was thinking ordering seafood pizza in inland Morocco. He had about two pieces and called it. It was covered in squid rings, anchovies, and what they called shrimp. Most of it tasted pretty old.

On our way back to the riad we got lost yet again and it took us longer than it should have to get home. The streets had cleared out from the mass of people and things seemed to be back to normal. We rested a bit and decided to go out one last time because our dinner was not sufficient. This time the Medina was empty, the shops were closed, and the streets were lined with garbage. The only food we could find was bread and water. We are ready to get out of this hole.